The secret to stunning eye makeup regardless of your age is simple... Color. Placement, values, matte or shimmer that's where things get complicated. There is no one answer to how to do mature eyes, because no two eyes (four, etc) are alike. Here are the myths and here are the secrets. Don't let a beauty blog or inexperienced makeup artist steer you wrong any longer. We asked Darin her tips and tricks since not only does she have over thirty years of makeup experience working with all ages and skin types, she also uses these tricks on herself!
ELEA: What's something that 'Mature' eyes should avoid?
DARIN: Every eye is different. It's hard to give a one-size-fits-all approach, but in general, you don't want to close your eye or apply makeup above the brow bone (unless it's a skin color).
ELEA: How would someone 'close their eye'?
DARIN: When you use colors that aren't the right ones for you, you can make things muddy and drag your complexion down. I recommend people start with moderate tones for the bone and crease color. If you use our eyedrapes and find that deeper colors work for you, go ahead and use them on your bone and crease, but don't use them as all-over colors. There are rare exceptions, and if you feel like that's you, send us a photo. We've met a few of ya, and it's always fun to see what looks you craft.
ELEA: Are things that 'mature' eyes struggle with also problems you see on people of all ages?"
DARIN: There aren't many differences between how you treat 'mature' eyes and how you treat the eyes of other ages. Some people have thinner lids or lids that tend to crease up. Some women have hooded eyes even as young girls. At elea blake, we don't think of these as 'problems' they are just different types of eyes, so we treat them differently. A lot of times young ones do things that aren't their best look but are forgiven for it. I think you don't get away with as much when you're in the mature range. Colors that didn't look your best when you were younger are more obviously wrong. It's not that suddenly you can't pull it off anymore, it's just that you never could and it is more obvious.
ELEA POST INTERVIEW NOTE: To be honest I don't really think that I forgive color transgressions like that for people my age or younger, but I'm probably more bothered by color mishaps than most. I get such an eye twitch when I see beautiful ladies out wearing colors that look aggressively wrong or rocking the cake face look when they have great skin. I've definitely been the one that rebelliously wore bad colors, but I've always looked back on photos and shook my own head at myself for not listening to my mother (Darin) :p. The saddest thing I see is the dreaded line when folks have a bad foundation match, and when mature women have that look, it can complicate an otherwise beautiful skin.
ELEA: Can 'Mature' eyes wear shimmery colors? I hear a lot of mature women say they shouldn't wear those, but what is the truth of that in your opinion?
DARIN: There is a huge misconception that women over 40 cannot wear shimmer eyeshadows. I was told in school that you couldn't wear shimmer or color if you were over 40. It's a lie. There are many different options when it comes to highlights in your eye colors. Any age eye benefits from adding a pop of highlight or interest on the 'pop' area (middle), inner eye, or along the lash line for those with a more hooded eye. There are different levels of shimmer and different uses of them. I get into this more in my upcoming book, but essentially the idea of giving up shimmers once you are past a certain age is poppycock.
ELEA: How important are eyebrows to the look?
DARIN: If your eyebrows are fair, you'll want to enhance them to bring out the eyes. You'll also want to make them the best shape and color. If you have trouble knowing which color is right for you try the Just Browsing packs. You might be surprised how much of a lift the right eyebrow color can bring. I'd also recommend not using hard-edged tools like pencils for your eye look if your brows are more sparse. These typically give you too strong of a line.
"What's your secret to fresh eyes every day?"
Typically I like to do a lighter color on my eyelid. That has to do with the fact that I look best with light and bright colors. My cheater easy look is that I like to do a defined color along my lash line and also like to ground it with a little bit of a deeper color like black, grey, or deep blue. Which breaks down to a dark neutral to emphasize my lashes and then a dark color to emphasize my eye color. I love shimmers. I use ICY when I'm feeling bold. I ABSOLUTELY love to use a color with a bit of a shimmer because it makes my eyes look wakeful and youthful.
"What's your trick for hooded eyes?"
Use an all-over color that is lighter than your skin color. For your crease, you will want to use a moderate color and find right below your brow bone to cut. Don't go above your brow bone, because otherwise, you're making your eyes smaller.
"What's the most common mistake people make when they do their eye makeup?"
People want to place colors in the wrong spot or they get heavy-handed and use too much, especially our stuff because a little goes a long way. I think people try too hard. It's supposed to be fun, but people want perfection. This means they are so focused on something unrealistic or unattainable that they don't see how beautiful their eyes actually are. It robs them of exploring all the amazing colors they could wear because they are scared and too used to their box. If there is a color you are afraid to try, come into the studio and I'll help you find the best one for you. If you can't come in go to the drapes and get the pack of colors that you can't imagine wearing. You might be SHOCKED to find that it gives you an amazing glow. Something new and fun! Face your fear and enjoy your face!
"Is there anything you think isn't age-appropriate for women of certain ages?"
No. I think it is so sad for mature women to be put into a box. Wear color. Embrace your inner self. Don't let others tell you things that you can't see with your own eyes as proof. See for yourself the difference color can make.
Elea: POST INTERVIEW NOTE I love using a little bit of a highlighter on mature women's cheekbones and under their eyebrows. It's my 'millennial' trick and honestly, they look so hot with a bit of a pop. Especially paired with a red lip. Whoever said mature women can't wear shimmer, red lips, and fun colors on their eyes have clearly never done it right.